The latest part of our journey has brought us the happiest and the most frightening experiences yet. Taking the ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico, we have continued along the coast in search of small towns with cooling ocean breezes, and unique characteristics. We've stayed at a number of different places with populations ranging from 100 to 250 000 people. The biggest shock for me is how you can exit a small town with poverty, and go around the corner to a big resort, where the mentality is totally different. One of the most shocking things for us as a family, has been armed civilian checkpoints.
Many Mexicans are unwilling to wait. In communities across the country, groups of men have donned masks, picked up rifles and machetes, and begun patrolling their neighborhoods and farmland. Within a few months, the vigilantes were mounting large, military-style operations, sweeping through and raiding known gang hang-outs. The image of Mexican civilians holding weapons, some old single-shot hunting rifles, some AK-47s, is disturbing even for those who can see it from a safe distance. They are mostly young men, from 18 to maybe 22 or 23. Some of them get paid, by whoever is paying them. But a lot of them are kids who, in civilian life, in normal life, they work as fruit-pickers. In some ways these younger guys are enjoying this. It gives purpose to their lives, and they think they're helping their communities.
Meanwhile, the spread of these groups indicates that the idea of community defense may be gaining in popularity. Although the federal government officially refuses to recognize the groups, several state and local governments have. Some have even negotiated agreements with the community forces, providing them with training and basic equipment. Others simply permit them to exist and operate, hoping undue trouble does not arise. As Mexico continues to reform and professionalize its law enforcement institutions -- a project that is still years from bearing fruit -- a flexible and pragmatic approach to self-defense groups will best serve the country.
Many Mexicans are unwilling to wait. In communities across the country, groups of men have donned masks, picked up rifles and machetes, and begun patrolling their neighborhoods and farmland. Within a few months, the vigilantes were mounting large, military-style operations, sweeping through and raiding known gang hang-outs. The image of Mexican civilians holding weapons, some old single-shot hunting rifles, some AK-47s, is disturbing even for those who can see it from a safe distance. They are mostly young men, from 18 to maybe 22 or 23. Some of them get paid, by whoever is paying them. But a lot of them are kids who, in civilian life, in normal life, they work as fruit-pickers. In some ways these younger guys are enjoying this. It gives purpose to their lives, and they think they're helping their communities.
Meanwhile, the spread of these groups indicates that the idea of community defense may be gaining in popularity. Although the federal government officially refuses to recognize the groups, several state and local governments have. Some have even negotiated agreements with the community forces, providing them with training and basic equipment. Others simply permit them to exist and operate, hoping undue trouble does not arise. As Mexico continues to reform and professionalize its law enforcement institutions -- a project that is still years from bearing fruit -- a flexible and pragmatic approach to self-defense groups will best serve the country.